I stood for some time watching the clouds move across the sky. Those in the foreground moved with great speed, while in the distance, they were still. The sun colored the closer ones a mixture of gold, pink and orange. It appeared that the city abruptly ended some place not so far away. As if there were some sheer drop off; the end of the earth. Everything ended but the clouds.
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Finally, I’m connected at home again. Somehow we lasted nearly a month and a half without internet access at the apartment. Thank god for video games.
A quick summary of the last two months:
Two friends and I were able to find a three bedroom apartment in southwest Tokyo.
We are proud owners of an American sized refrigerator, a small washer and a small dryer.
The entire spring/summer break was spent without internet, so we played lots of video games and did a little exploring.
Living in Tokyo without a bike is… well stupid and frustrating. So I bought a BMX bike and put quite a few miles on it already. Besides being a blast to ride, it’s good exercise. I’m the fittest I’ve been in a number of years (not that that’s saying much…)
Started the summer semester at TUJ. It’s a shortened semester, but the syllabus for each class is the same as the ones used during full-length fall and spring semesters, so I’m slammed with work. Though I only go to school MWF, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays are devoted to homework and studying.
Nothing else to report really. Just all sorts of school work keeping me busy. Tonight for instance; I could have gone out, but no, I’ve been working on a paper for the last five hours. And now it’s 1:16 and I’m going to bed. Good night.
looks like i’ll be without internet until the 7th of may. yay! :( but when it does get installed i’ll be a happy camper. 100mb up and down baby. i loves me some fiber.
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A little look into what I see every day. It’s a JR 700 Shinkansen (bullet train) at Shinagawa station.
The sakura are in full bloom here in Tokyo. Check out the pics above.
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Last week I won tickets to a local production of Glengary Glen Ross thanks to the fine gentlemen at TPR. The show was Saturday night and I invited Calvin to come since he had never seen the movie or the play before. The theater is in Iidabashi and is very small, less than 100 people in capacity. It was good, but it certainly didn’t compare to the movie. It’s hard not to be jaded after you’ve seen Al Pacino, Jack Lemmon, Alan Arkin, Ed Harris and Kevin Spacey play those parts.
It was very cold and windy, and the walk from the station to the theater was long and up hill. Once the play was over, having conquered the treacherous hike once, we decided to avoid the return trip after spotting a subway station across the street. Unfortunately, on the way back home, we misheard the train conductor. Instead of getting off at Shinagawa and waiting for the next train to take us to Gotanda, we stayed on and ended up at Kawasaki. I really should learn the words for “Limited Express.”
Luckily, Kawasaki is only one stop via the Keihin Tohoku line from Kamata, which is one of the stations on the Ikegami line; the same line our neighborhood is on. We were starved and decided to venture outside the station at Kamata since the area is full of shops and restaurants. We spotted a tiny Indian place and decided to venture in. The staff was Indian as were most of the clientèle, so I knew we hit on something good. The menu had English, our waiter was nice, the nan was huge and everything tasted wonderful. I’ll certainly be returning.
Last night our previous plans of karaoke kinda fell through, so I ended up going to Kua `Aina in Gotanda for dinner with some other dorm mates. I had a BLT with cheese, an order of fries and a drink. Normally I hate mayo, but the mayo here (the Japanese love mayo and seem to put it on everything) is different here somehow. It actually compliments the flavors instead of overpowering them. Now, I’ve had tons of good food since I’ve come here, but I think that was the most satisfying meal I’ve had in Japan. I don’t know if it was just because it was like food I’d eat at home or if it was just that good. Either way, I’m glad we went, and I’ll be sure to go back.
After dinner we were trying to think of some place to go, preferably a large bar with some people. So we headed out to Roppongi. We exited the station through Tokyo Midtown which is absolutely amazing and definitely requires a return trip with the camera. I originally had no intention of ever going to Roppongi, and walking it’s streets was almost worse than I expected. There are Africans posted every few feet on the sidewalks who try to get you to come see “big titties” and “loose women.” But, unfortunately, this is where the big bars are. And there are foreigners everywhere! It’s disgusting. On the upside, there was a very nice pool hall with lots of open space, good looking tables and lots of electronic dart boards. It was rather empty (and expensive) so we headed across the street to the rather insensitively named Gas Panic! (club location).
It was pretty early (21:30) and there weren’t too many people there. The DJ’s started off with a really good set of house music, but it soon deteriorated into hip-hop once the people started pouring in about an hour later. We stayed until about 23:40, which turned out to be just a little too late. Luckily we caught the subways in time to get to Tamachi, and then the last train to Gotanda, but we got stuck taking a cab from there to our neighborhood because the Ikegami line was shut down for the night.
This is probably my number one qualm with Tokyo so far: you’re forced to go home early or stay out all night. The trains stop running between 0:00 and 1:00 and don’t start again until about 5:00. Cabs aren’t cheap here to begin with, and when the trains stop they add an extra fee on top of their normal starting charge (¥700). It’s not so bad when you’re with two other people so you can split the cost, but it ends up being at least an extra ¥1000 each that you didn’t want to spend in the first place.
A friend and I were at the local bar somewhat late last night when it started to snow. The guy who owns the bar decided to close shop for the night and offered to drive us back to the dorm. It was more rain than snow really, but that didn’t deter him from driving what I perceived as rather fast. But he has lived his whole life around Ontakesan so he could probably drive these streets blindfolded. In the smaller areas of Tokyo, the streets are tiny and difficult to navigate. Once you spend some time walking around them you begin to understand why small cars with low horsepower are so popular. There is also a lack of stop signs at most intersections. Instead, they have a sign suggesting that you slow down as you approach the intersection. I’m really surprised there aren’t more accidents.
When I woke up this morning the ground was covered in snow. It was no more than a few centimeters, but it continued to slowly pile up all day long. In front of the dorm there is a small court yard and parking lot, so this evening before it got too dark we decided to have a snowball fight. One of the girls here at the dorm is from Hawaii and this was her first time ever having a snowball fight.
Saturday afternoon I met up with two other JAs at Yoyogi station. We had the objective of going to the sword museum, but it turns out that it’s not in the park or at Meiji Jingu, but north west of the area. Of course we didn’t find this out until we spent a few hours walking around looking for it, but we did come across a few interesting things. In the large forest area surrounding Meiji Jingu there are a few other buildings of interest, one being the treasure museum. Inside there are portraits of all the emperors up to and including Showa (Hirohito) as well as a number of artifacts saved from the Meiji emperor and empress. Another building close by houses a training facility where they practice traditional archery and other arts involving weapons.
After walking through the shrine and ending up near the Harajuku exit, we had built up quite a hunger and decided to find some place to eat. We walked down the major street near the station and looked into Lotteria and Jonathans, but both were packed. Standing outside, we happened to glance a sign for a Thai restaurant in the next building and decided to check it out. Luckily there was only one other customer and soon we had the place to ourselves. I ordered deep fried squid and my friends both had a red curry dish. The food was very good and not too expensive, but since we were in Harajuku we decided to head to the nearest crepe stand for desert. For between ¥300 - ¥500 you get a large crepe filled with things like strawberries and whipped cream or cheese cake and rolled into a cone about 30cm long. They even have lunch style crepes filled with salad or smoked salmon.
I’m surprised you don’t see many fat people in Tokyo. Everywhere you go there are small restaurants and entire buildings filled with eateries. The smells from inside make their way out to the streets, and it all smells fantastic. I want to eat this entire city. Maybe it’s a good thing that my vocabulary and reading ability are so poor; if I could speak the language and read the menus I’d never stop eating. And with the price of groceries being relatively high, it’s just as cheap to eat out as to cook for one. Anyone who tells you that Tokyo is an expensive place to eat is full of shit. A Big Mac does not cost $20. In fact, a meal at McDonalds (Maku Donorarudo, as the Japanese say) is probably a little cheaper than in the States, and much better quality.
One of my favorite things about riding the trains in Tokyo is that each station on the JR lines has it’s own little jingle played every time the train pulls in. The TV program I’m watching right now just interviewed a kid who learned how to play all of them on the piano and recorded himself playing each one. Here’s another little video to give you a taste of what it sounds like in real life.
It snowed in Tokyo today. After a while it turned to rain, creating a nice slush all over the ground perfect for playing the “try not to slip and die” game.
I’ve noticed that Americans aren’t the only ones who go retarded when using a cell phone. Walking through the train stations the last few days, I’ve been slowed down any number of times by people looking at their cell phones instead of keeping up the pace.
The local Jusco sells some really good tortilla chips (made in Belgium of all places) but is definitely lacking in the salsa department. The only place I’ve seen salsa (and peanut butter) is Nissin. Even they didn’t have much to choose from. I’ll have to check out National Azabu. Speaking of Jusco, while browsing their tiny pizza/cheese area of the store, I came upon a “pizza crust.” I shit you not, it was a tortilla.
I’ve been dying for some good pizza lately so I decided to cave in and picked up a small frozen pizza for dinner today. It wasn’t too bad. It didn’t exactly taste wonderful, but not any worse than the small frozen pizzas I’ve had in the US. Tomorrow, since I’m out of school early, I think I’ll do a little real cooking and fire up an omelet.
Luckily I’ve had very little homework so far. Had to finish a short essay I began in class the other day, and I’ve got a rough draft of an essay due tomorrow morning. That’s it really, but I expect it to pick up as the semester moves along.
Russ, I have no idea about the timestamps. I imagine since I’m hosted in the US and I haven’t changed any prefs in WordPress that it will still show PST. I’ll look into that. And as for the phone, I got a white one.
Japanese TV is wonderful. Right now I’m watching a morning show on TV and they’re having a cooking segment with Hard Gay. Variety shows and game shows seem to be very popular. It’s very strange watching TV and having almost no clue what they’re talking about.
Saturday we went to Yoyogi park to play frisbee. Unfortunately I didn’t bring my camera but I plan on going back some day soon when it’s sunny out to take pictures. To get to the park from Harajuku station, you enter through the Meiji Shrine. I find it a bit ironic that the emperor who worked so hard to westernize this country is enshrined in a very traditional Japanese style. Nevertheless, the shrine is absolutely beautiful, as is the 175 acre forest surrounding it. It’s amazing to see considering it was all destroyed during the war, and it really makes you wonder how the Kanto plane must have looked before 13 million people decided they wanted to live here.
After frisbee we made our way back into Harajuku station. Don’t ever go into Harajuku station on a Saturday evening. It took 10 minutes just to get past the ticketing gates, but the trains weren’t very packed. We made our way to Shinjuku station and then on to Jimbocho which is the book district. After having dinner we hunted down the English language floor of the book store in the same building and bought some books we needed for school.
Sunday I decided to take a solo journey to Yokohama. I’m only a few miles from the ocean so I’ve been dying to see the water. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that Yokohama station wasn’t the smartest place to exit and I had to walk a few miles to get to the bay. I took some pictures of Landmark Tower (the tallest building in Japan) but it was very overcast so I didn’t bother going inside to the observatory. I also took some pictures of the wedge shaped building and the ferris wheel. I never got to see the open ocean though. I had walked so far already I didn’t feel like going as far as I’d have to to get there. I’ll plan my trip next time so I get on a train that takes me closer to the water. I’ll post the pictures within the next few days.
I had my first day of classes yesterday; math and English. My English class is very small (15 people) while my math class is large (by TUJ standards; 40 people). I like my math teacher and I think he’ll do a good job making math fun and easy to learn. He told us if we show up without a calculator on Thursday that he would make fun of us. If we are without one next Tuesday, he will resort to physical violence. I really hate writing projects, so I doubt I’ll enjoy English much. Luckily there aren’t many books I need to buy so far; I have yet to go to Japanese class or Music studies yet.
After school I went to Shibuya and got a new phone, a calculator and set up a bank account with Shinsei. It’s very easy to do everyday things like these since just about every place in popular areas like Shibuya have english speaking staff. Unfortunately, I haven’t been anywhere else in the city just yet, but I think I might go down to Yokohama this weekend to just be by the ocean for a little while. It’s very strange never seeing the end of the city. Everywhere you look it’s just more and more buildings. Since Tokyo Tower is near school I plan to check that out soon as well.
Still haven’t gotten my phone. Didn’t bring my passport since everyone said the alien registration certificate was just as good, but the fine folks at Softbank said otherwise. Went to karaoke last night in Shibuya and had a much better time than I expected to. They have an all you can drink deal for ~$10/hr called nomihodai. This country forces you to be home by a decent hour by stopping train service around midnight. Some might complain, but I like not being able to completely lose track of time and start heading home when the sun comes up. Also picked up a train pass that lets me get to school and home for free. Since Gotanda is where we go to switch to the Yamanote line on the way to school or just about anywhere else in the city, that part of the ride is free as well. Speaking of school, class starts on Tuesday but have another orientation on Monday afternoon. Luckily I only have to deal with the terrible morning rush on Tuesday and Thursday; Monday, Wednesday and Friday class doesn’t start until 1:40pm.
Some SAs (study abroad students) have a death wish. At least I can find no other logical reason for one to start blasting horrible music at 7:30 on its first morning in the dorms. I’d rather avoid conflict, but I’m afraid they need to learn the rules unless they want a war. I don’t have class until 13:40 most days so I’d be more than happy to dish out some torture at all hours of the night. Especially around midterms.
Today was my first full day in Japan, and here are some things I’ve noticed so far:
There are very few trash cans on the streets of Tokyo, and when you do finally find one, it’s usually for cans or glass only. In Japan you must separate your garbage; combustible, non-combustible, plastic bottles, cans and glass.
Bathrooms rarely have anything to dry your hands with. Narita airport had air dryers, but I have yet to see them or paper towels anywhere in Tokyo. Including at the dorm.
Face masks: not just for hay fever. People here wear them whenever they are sick. In fact, I bought some from the 100 yen store today since I’m still a bit under the weather. One ride on the Yamanote line during morning rush hour and you’ll understand why.
On the plane from San Francisco, after about the 6th or 7th hour, and then again today while I was sitting in the classroom during orientation, I started thinking “why the hell am I doing this?” It’s tough. It’s not at all like I expected. Sure there are a few cultural idiosyncrasies you know about before arriving, but living it is somehow a little less exciting. I guess I really had hyped it up for myself over the years.
But then tonight, as we were walking back to the dorm from the train station, I felt it. Walking down the quiet streets at night, the song Sakura softly playing from speakers throughout the shopping area near the station, the light drizzle, the small shops filled with smiling faces and warm greetings… This is what I was looking for.
Just posting to let everyone know I made it OK. Got into the dorm last night, met some people, had dinner and started unpacking. Today is my first real day here, and we start with orientation. I’ll post some pictures and whatnot once i have some.
Hope everyone had a good new year’s celebration. Mine was nice and quiet. Hope to have some pictures of the fireworks up soon, but there are lots to sort through and so little time. I think I got some good ones though. We had a clear view of the entire strip.
Aside from being completely exhausted and stressed out, everything is going good so far. Still have packing to do and a few things to sort through at the house. Today is my last day at work, so I’m busy trying to do some sort of brain dump. The Wings are playing Dallas tonight and don’t play again until Saturday, so this will be the last game I get to watch for a while. Afterwards, I’m having a big dinner tonight with a bunch of friends.
For a long time now this blog has been more of a tumblelog (with the occasional long post) than anything else, but that’s all about to change in the next few weeks. I’m about to embark on the biggest and possibly most important adventure of my life, and I hope to be able to share some of it with all of you through blog posts and photos.
For the past few years I’ve been completely obsessed with Japan; the history, the culture, the food, everything. I spent hours reading, learning the language (attempting to, at least,) and trying to come up with a way visit or possibly move there. I had been toying with the idea of going back to school since I’d heard one of the requirements to move to Japan was to have a degree. But why would any company hire me without any experience in the country? Coming up with nothing, I stumbled upon a podcast from an English teacher working at an American University in Tokyo and quickly realized I’d found my way in.
After doing a bit of research, I decided to throw my hat into the ring, and I received the good news in September: I’d been accepted into Temple University Japan Campus (TUJ). Since then it’s been a grueling battle to get everything in order, the only thing left being my student visa (which I should have in a week or two.) Barring any major setback, I’ll be leaving Las Vegas on January 5th to begin my new life in Tokyo.
This looks like it’s going to be fun. </sarcasm>
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A few observations made a while back that I never got around to posting. This kind of attitude I won’t miss at all.
Killing animals: OK; Gambling: bad.
Having children at the age of 14: OK; Using birth control: bad.
Intolerant nationalism: OK; Questioning your government: bad.
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Sorry for the lack of updates during the past week; I’ve been without a computer. I left Minnesota yesterday and have returned to this hell hole that masquerades as a city. Unfortunately I’ve also not kept abreast of the news, but I have kept a general log of my activities, so I hope to find at least a few things to talk about.